Thursday, September 30, 2010

Kathmandu Finally! My Packed First Day

 I'll do my best to recreate the essence of Kathmandu. I arrived in the black of the night, so although I didn't see much, I could smell the dry dirt under my feet and the could hear the honking of many horns. We made our way just outside the "metropolitan city" as they call it to the guest house of Volunteer Nepal where I am staying. The house has about 8 people staying at any given time, depending on how many people are out volunteering in different cities. I have two roommates who are fast asleep when I arrive. I fall asleep to crickets and what seems like thousands of dogs barking outside my window. I'm very content lying down after the 30 hour trip getting here with only mere naps sitting down.  Right before I fall asleep I'm reminded of the foreground, middle ground, and background of a photograph and how it seems as if the cricket noise is the foreground, and the barking is at all levels, creating an image in my mind of the sounds that I'm hearing. Now, keep in mind that I had just arrived after many many hours of traveling. Some may think that I was verging on delusional, but I look back and only see genius!
Next day: wake up at 8am and I can see the view from my window (see picture).
 I will not have jet lag ever again--taking uncomfortable naps while taking a long enough journey cures all jet lag issues. I'm ready to go. Take a shower (hot water! It's very cushy here at the guest house), eat dal bhat (hope I'm spelling that right) which is lentils, rice, and veggies--very Nepali dish, and started my language lessons for the day. After learning a plethora of new words and phrases, my roommates and I and our language tutors take off to explore the city. In case you'd like to try some Nepali sentences at home, here are some to try: Namaste! (Hello)  Tapailai kasto cha? (how are you?) Malai thik cha. (I'm fine.) Pheri bhetaunla! (see you again!) And if you really want a challenge, try saying that you don't understand and that you would like someone to repeat it slowly: Maile bhujhina, kripaya bistarai bolnuhos?

Ok, so back to the tour of the city. We went to Boudhanath first (which is a world heritage site and a very popularly photographed site, so if you look it up, you will most likely recognise it). I am amazed that even after a short bus ride and a short walk, we have not been hassled or asked for money or been approached for anything other than a "namaste." I guess I did arrive with some assumptions as to what it would be like in the big city of Kathmandu, and I am pleasantly surprised by the reality.  In this section of town, there is a large majority of Tibetans who have fled from Tibet. The older women are my favorite to watch, because they not only seem to be the most religiously disciplined and aggressive about it, (practically pushing others aside to make sure that they complete their circumnavigation of the stupa in an orderly fashion) but they also seem to be the most relaxed. I know that sounds like a difficult, if not impossible thing to be, both relaxed and aggressive, but they manage both just fine, chatting with their friends and laughing lightheartedly while chanting near the shrines. It was such a beautiful, relaxing, colorful, and interesting place--not at all what I expected of a major tourist site. I wished that I could stay longer, and if you've ever traveled with me to "must see locations" you would know that that means a lot.

Then we walked through the city for about 40 minutes. We saw winding streets, children in uniforms (everyone wears a uniform, regardless of age--even in college), and lots of animals, especially goats, chickens and the street dogs that are everywhere you look. We arrived at temple that had a beautiful panoramic view of the city and sat on the well manicured lawn for a rest. While resting a small Nepali girl came and sat down with us, just wanting to be in our presence. She then proceeded to teach me the Nepali numbers from 1-10. On the way back, I saw buses with funny English sayings painted on the back, like "don't kiss me, yo," a girl that was wearing pants as a part of her uniform (very rare. All the other girls wear skirts), many backyard gardens which I admired longingly, and at some delectable momos (similar to pot stickers but waaaaay better). But you know what they say, when you first arrive somewhere, all you notice are the differences, but the more time you spend there, all you notice are the similarities.  I feel like I have been here for at least 4 days, although it is my first because I feel so welcome and happy here and have learned so much and met so many people in such a short time.

Tomorrow I leave for the Shree Sham Primary School in Dumrekarka Ramechhaap. I will not have Internet access until I return on the 8th or 9th of October because I will be on top of a hill two hours outside the nearest village that may or may not have electricity. I'm ecstatic!

1 comment:

  1. sounds incredible so far. i like the part about seeing goats.

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